On one chill night in November, I reached Maheshwar via Khandwa by train from Mumbai. “Khandwa mein Kishore Kumar rehte the aur unka yahan mandir bana hai. Chalo Apko dikha dete hain” said my chatty cab driver who drove me to Maheshwar from Khandwa. By the time I reached Maheshwar, the dim-lit town was already sleepy. I received a warm welcome with a marigold garland from my office staff in true Maheshwari style.

I went off to sleep early that night as was exhausted after the long journey. The sweet chirping of a blackbird who was knocking on the window pane woke me up in the morning. He was persistent and demanded my attention. As the window opened, strong winter winds entered the room.  I decided to skip sleeping and take a morning walk down the ghats instead.

Awestruck I couldn’t take my eyes off and marvel at the magnificent Ahilya Fort along the sacred Narmada. I felt her cold water on my feet as I bowed down in respect. I sat there peacefully looking at the rising sun admiring the mighty Narmada and how the sun reflected on its water.

“ Devi Ahilya Bai would have walked on this same path every day” I couldn’t get over that feeling. I had read about her in the history books and admired the noble queen immensely. Later in the day, I went to see the Rajwada. Sitting on her throne in the courtyard her magnetic aura could be felt as if Ahilya Maa Saab is still watching over her people.

When you are moving in and around Maheshwar it is difficult to miss the rhythmic khat-khat sound of the loom. The khat-khat sound mixed with old Bollywood songs playing on the radio and cheerful weavers weaving magic with their hands in the workshop. Maheshwari sarees are characterised by their elegant simplicity. The weaving tradition in Maheshwar has been passed from one generation

to the other and almost the entire household is involved in the different weaving related processes.  Weavers, great designers themself get their design inspiration from the flowing Narmada and the carvings on the fort. Maheshwar is a thriving example of our country’s rich handloom tradition and how it’s been preserved for centuries.

At the workplace, I was lovingly greeted with a “Namaste” by the weavers who were happy chatting and exchanging a little trivia about Maheshwar. “Aaap shayam ko chai peene ghar aana” some of them invited me home. Like they say no one is a stranger here, just friends you haven’t yet met, people in Maheshwar are warm and friendly. Most of the people here found my name difficult to pronounce, and so I became their “Mumbaiwali Mam” I quite liked that title. Later the volunteers at the office took me for lunch with them to a mess. That soon became my regular place for meals. I got hooked on to the indoori poha and dal baffle made lovingly by the lady of the house.  

The day went by quickly and as I looked out of the window the sun was going down. The golden hues of the sun reflecting looked stunning on the flowing Narmada. I watched the skies sitting by the ghats while sipping on some tea from a nearby stall. Soon it was time for the aarti by the ghats, several little lamps were floating on the river and the air was filled with sounds of bhajans in Nimadi. For a city girl like me, it was a divine experience that cannot be described in words but only felt.

For the rest of the days in Maheshwar, I would spend my off-work hours at the ghats admiring the winter skies and how they changed their colours every minute. I spent a lot of time introspecting, looking within and seeping in the tranquillity. Rightly so it’s the centre of the universe.  

It’s said we leave a piece of our heart wherever we travel, but Maheshwar has my whole heart.  

“Main Tenu Phir Milangi, Pata Nahi Kis Tarah Kithe – Amrita Pritam”